VASCO
OLIVIER ROUSTEING
ARTIST RESEARCH PROJECT
For this design research project I chose to do some more in depth research of one of my longtime, all time favorite designers of luxury fashion houses: Olivier Rousteing for Balmain. Simply put, the designs are the most beautiful, sophisticated, and empowering garments I've ever seen. For my research, I relied on articles from
posted on Nov. 4th, 2017, posted on Nov. 3rd, 2015, and on Oct. 12th, 2015.
Here's what I found:
WHO
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32 years old
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Adopted when 5 months old by Bruno-Jean and Lydia Rousteing, a white family from a conservative town in France called Bordeaux
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Adopted because they mom had cancer when she was younger and couldn’t have children anymore
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Very liberal
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Grew up in a comfortable house, self-described as a “spoilt and naughty only child”
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Rough years in high school, bullied for liking fashion and being gay, and for being the only black person in his family
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Parents wanted him to go to law school, went for a couple of months and then dropped out
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Went to the Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode where he studied fashion for 6 months.
WHAT
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Started out by working his way up to a designer for women’s and men’s ready-to-wear at Roberto Cavalli, but in 2009 left the company because he “think{s} I needed also to learn who I am”.
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In 2009, he wrote to Christope Decarnin, then creative director of Balmain, who then offered him a job as a womenswear designer for Balmain. Long story short, after Decarnin abruptly stepped down, Rousteing was promoted to creative Director at 25, the youngest creative director of a luxury fashion house since Yves Saint Laurent.
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Now, as the creative director he turned a failing brand into an internationally sought after luxury brand.
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Instead of using draping to emphasize femininity like Pierre Balmain did, he uses it to emphasize and exude a woman’s confidence.
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In his first year, sales rose by 25%
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Uses a personal social media account, the first Parisian luxury creative director to do so, to get the word out.
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Pushes the boundaries with luxury vs. pop culture by using celebrities such as the Kardashians, Justin Bieber, and Rosie Huntington Whiteley to name a few to promote his brand.
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WHEN
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NOW
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Collaborations with H&M, L’Oreal, and most recently reveal Victoria’s Secret make it one of the hottest brands right now
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H&M is no stranger to designer collaborations. Previously has worked with Alexander Wang, Karl Lagerfeld, and Betsy Johnson to name a few. However, within seconds of the launch the online microsite for Balmain x H&M crashed, once revived sold out, and resale rates were going for 3-5 times the retail cost directly after the event, and now are going for around 1.5 time the resale rate.
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Dressed all the Kardashian-Jenner clan for the Met Gala
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Dressed Justin Bieber for the Met Gala and attended with him
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Dressed Beyoncé in a custom lace body suit for her Formation world tour
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Collaborate on Kanye West’s music video for Wolves from his album The Life of Pablo
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Balmain was mentioned in Anaconda by Nicki Minaj in 2014 and in Kid Cudi’s song “Balmain Jeans”
WHERE
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When Rousteing got hold of the brand, it was only a Parisian brand that was located off Champs-Élysées in a six story eighteenth-century building, the same building it was founded in by Pierre Balmain in 1945.
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Company is expanding into the global market. Within his team, Rousteing has representatives for Europe, Asia, the U.S., Brazil, and the Middle East.
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Where does he get his inspiration:
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Grandmother, who loves Chanel Pearls
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Women, wants them to feel empowered and sexy in his clothes
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WHY
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Giving the face of luxury something we haven’t seen before
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Pop culture and luxury have always been at odds
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Creative directors were worried about keep a distinction between the two so that they could maintain an exclusive image that kept people coming to their brands.
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Olivier Rousteing however see things in a different way. Pop culture is a means to an end to globalize and democratize Balmain
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While Balmain is still a luxury brand, by doing collaborations with businesses like H&M and L’Oréal he is making a part of the brand accessible to A.) those who cannot afford their regular prices and B.) the younger generation that is the future Balmain customer.
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